How to Install Hardwood Flooring and Transform Your Home

Hardwood floor installation can seem daunting, but with the right tips, it can be a rewarding DIY project that will transform your home. Whether installing solid or engineered hardwood, this article will walk you through the process step by step, making the whole DIY process a success.

Hardwood Floor Installation: Is Solid or Engineered Easier to DIY?

How hard is it to install hardwood floors? Should you choose solid or engineered for a DIY project? 

If this is your first hardwood floor installation and you don’t want to mess it up, go with the engineered hardwood. Both hardwood types have unique pros and cons, but most DIY folks agree that engineered floors are easier to install. If you need a reminder, here’s a summary of both types.

Solid hardwood is made from a single piece of wood. 

It’s durable and can be refinished multiple times. It works great for rooms above ground level with more stable temperatures and humidity conditions. 

Living rooms, bedrooms, home offices, the list goes on, but avoid putting it in the bathroom. Solid hardwood is installed by nailing or stapling the planks to the subfloor.

Engineered hardwood, on the other hand, consists of multiple layers of wood veneer glued together. 

It’s stable and less susceptible to changes in temperature and humidity. This means engineered hardwood floor installation IS possible in basements, kitchens, bathrooms, or rooms with radiant heating. Engineered is more flexible for DIY projects since it can be nailed, glued, or floated over various subfloors and can be installed in pretty much every room. 

But if you have already decided to go for solid floors, we recommend investing in prefinished solid floors. While they tend to cost a few dollars more, the cost is well worth the effort and the potential mistakes of DIY finishing. Now that that’s out of the way, let’s begin with the hardwood floor installation and the first step.

Step 1: Gather Your Tools and Materials

Before starting with hardwood floor installation, ensure you have the proper tools and materials. Here’s a checklist of everything we will mention in our guide:

For tools:

• Tape measure: To measure the dimensions of your room and planks.
• Chalk line: To mark the subfloor.
• Pry bar: For removing old flooring.
• Hammer: For driving nails.
• Drill: For pre-drilling holes.
• Flooring nailer or stapler: For securing the hardwood planks.
• Rubber mallet: For gently tapping planks into place.
• Circular saw or miter saw: For cutting planks to fit. 
• Moisture meter: To check the moisture levels in the subfloor.
• Safety goggles: To protect your eyes from dust and debris.
• Knee pads: To protect your knees while working on the floor.
• Spacers: To maintain the expansion gap between the planks and the wall.

For materials:

• Hardwood flooring: The primary material for your new floor.
• Underlayment (if needed): Provides cushioning and sound insulation.
• Vapor barrier (if required): Prevents moisture damage from the subfloor.
• Flooring nails or staples: To secure the planks to the subfloor.
• Wood filler: To fill any gaps or nail holes.
• Floor cleaner: To clean the floor after installation.

Step 2: Preparing the Subfloor

A well-prepared subfloor is clean, dry, level, and structurally sound. 

It should be free of debris, dust, and old adhesives, with all nails and staples removed. Any uneven areas must be sanded or filled, and moisture levels should be checked to ensure suitability for the chosen flooring. 

Issues like squeaks or uneven boards are usually a result of bad subfloor preparation. 

Prepare your subfloor in 4 steps:

1. Remove old flooring: Carefully remove any existing flooring. Use a pry bar for carpet or tile and a hammer and chisel for old hardwood.
2. Clean the subfloor: Sweep and vacuum the subfloor to remove any debris.
3. Check for level: Use a level to ensure the subfloor is even. If there are any high spots, sand them down. Fill low spots with a leveling compound.
4. Moisture test: Use a moisture meter to check the moisture content of the subfloor. It should be within 2-4% of the hardwood flooring.

Step 3: Acclimate the Hardwood 

To acclimate hardwood means to allow it to adjust to the room’s temperature and humidity. Some people advocate skipping this step but we do not, since most hardwood warranties specify that the flooring NEEDS to be acclimated.

If you skip this step, it can lead to potential issues after the installation where your new floor starts warping, buckling, or having gaps due to expansion and contraction.

Ignoring acclimation instructions can also void the warranty, leaving you unprotected against defects.

Unbox and Stack: Open the boxes of hardwood and stack the planks in the room where they will be installed. For solid hardwood, leave them for 3-7 days. Acclimation is shorter for engineered hardwood, 1-3 days should be enough. 

Step 4: Install the Vapor Barrier and Underlayment

Installing a vapor/moisture barrier and underlayment confuses some people. They ask if they need a vapor barrier or underlayment, or both. The answer depends on the type of hardwood being installed and the type of subfloor. 

Here’s the rule of thumb: use a vapor barrier for solid hardwood and underlayment for engineered hardwood. 

The vapor barrier prevents the moisture from the subfloor (especially concrete) from getting into the hardwood. Underlayment, on the other hand, provides cushioning and sound insulation. It also smooths out minor subfloor imperfections and works as a moisture barrier.

Both are easy to install:

1. Vapor barrier: Roll out the vapor barrier over the subfloor, overlapping the edges by 6 inches. Secure with tape.
2. Underlayment: Roll out the underlayment over the vapor barrier, ensuring the edges are flush or slightly overlapped. Secure with tape or staples. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 5: Plan the Layout

You need a good layout plan to achieve a balanced and visually appealing installation. Without it, you might end up with awkwardly narrow planks at the edges or a pattern that doesn’t look right. 

Do this instead:

1. Find the center: Measure the width of the room and mark the center. Snap a chalk line along this mark.
2. Dry lay the planks: Lay out a few rows of hardwood without nailing them down and check how they fit. Adjust as needed to avoid narrow planks at the walls.

Step 6: Install the First Row

The first row sets the foundation for the rest of the installation. A straight first row ensures that all subsequent rows will be aligned correctly, preventing gaps and misalignment. Take your time with this step:

1. Start in the corner: Begin in the corner of the room, with the tongue side facing the wall.
2. Leave a gap: Place spacers between the planks and the wall to allow for expansion (about 1/2 inch).
3. Nail the first row: Pre-drill holes in the planks near the wall and nail them down with a flooring nailer or stapler.

Step 7: Continue Installing the Planks

With the first row securely in place, you can now move on to installing the rest of the planks. This is where you start to see your new floor come to life. 

Continue staggering the joints and fitting each plank tightly:

1. Stagger the joints: Ensure the joints are staggered at least 6 inches apart to create a stable and attractive pattern.
2. Use the flooring nailer: As you move away from the wall, use the flooring nailer to secure the planks. Ensure each plank is tightly fitted before nailing.
3. Cut to fit: Use a circular saw or miter saw to cut the planks to fit at the end of each row. Remember to leave the expansion gap.

Step 8: Finish the Last Row

The last row can be a bit tricky as it needs to fit perfectly into the remaining space. 

1. Measure and cut: Measure the space for the last row, accounting for the expansion gap, and cut the planks accordingly.
2. Face nail: Pre-drill and face nail the last row, as you did with the first row. Since the last row is close to the wall, using a flooring nailer is impractical, so use a hammer instead.

Step 9: Add the Finishing Touches

Now that you have completed your first hardwood floor installation, the final touches will make everything look even better.

1. Remove spacers: Once all the planks are installed, remove the spacers around the perimeter.
2. Install baseboards: Reattach or install new baseboards to cover the expansion gap.
3. Fill gaps and holes: Use wood filler to fill any gaps or nail holes. After applying the wood filler, let it dry and then sand it lightly. 

Step 10: Clean and Enjoy

With the installation complete and all finishing touches applied, it’s time to give your new floor a final clean and then sit back to appreciate the transformation.

1. Clean the floor: Vacuum and clean the floor to remove any dust and debris. Use a soft-bristle vacuum attachment to avoid scratching the surface, and follow up with a damp (not wet) mop or any floor cleaner you have.
2. Enjoy your new floor: Admire your work and enjoy your new hardwood floor!

Conclusion

Hardwood floor installation can seem like a daunting task at first, but with the right preparation, tools, and our step-by-step guide, it becomes a rewarding DIY project that transforms your home. 

If you successfully installed your new hardwood floors following our guide, congratulations! Take pride in your accomplishment, knowing that you’ve created a beautiful and functional space that you and your family can enjoy for years to come.